Plans and photos of a simple rainwater catch system.

When I think about preparedness and survival, I think about the primary priorities in order like this: Shelter, Water, Food and Security. The secondary priorities, once you’ve handled those first four, go like this: Medical, Intelligence, Communications and Transportation. I’m going to give you some plans for a simple way to start a rainwater collection system to allow you to check your water needs off the list. Try to remember as a starting rule that your survival group is going to need to plan for water usage to the tune of one gallon of water per person, per day. Sometimes this will obviously include some adjustments up and down for different cooking needs, sanitation, medical, etc., but generally speaking, that rule is a good starting point.

Before we start, also take into consideration your local water sources. I personally live in a very riverine area, though I’m not right on the water. So as long as I’ve done well for myself with transportation, that might be a good option for collecting water. However, I’ve also got a pretty reliable rainfall pattern (or so I say, as we are currently experiencing our first night of rain in eight weeks). Some of us can often count on decent rainfall, but it would behoove you to store water in the largest amount you can for those weeks (or months) when rain is scarce.

This type of simple system will allow you to funnel rainwater into your reservoir, and also collect from other sources and deposit it in the reservoir yourself. When it’s time to use it, or if you want to drain it into smaller ready-to-use jugs or bottles, it’ll need to be filtered/purified. My unpaid recommendation is to use a Berkey water filter for that, simply because the “black” filters that company uses are able to filter a very large amount of water before they need to be replaced. Simply take the water from your collection system, pour it through a Berkey or some similar filtration system, and it’ll be ready to drink. Without filtering, the water can be used for garden irrigation, pets, possibly even hygiene.

Below you’ll see the parts you’ll for this simple build laid out on our table. There we have a 1/2″ metal hose adaptor and a 1/2″ spigot. You’ll need two PVC bushings to go onto those and a pair of rubber washers, one for each bushing. Get some Teflon tape to wrap the metal threads of the hose adaptor and spigot. Get a length of garden hose to attach to the hose adaptor later as an overflow valve. I have some black plastic mesh screen and a couple of bungee cords to make a top screen. Use a power drill and a 13/16 spade bit for drilling holes in the barrel. My barrel I’m using is a food grade 55 gallon barrel that I’m told contained Mountain Dew before it came to me. Some sources will have the top cut off for you, but you can use a jig saw or a saws-all to remove if you need to. I advise using food grade plastic rather than something that could rust. Lastly, you need a short length of garden hose, at least three feet, and make sure it’s still got the attachment on one end.

 

Use your drill bit to drill out two holes in the barrel. One hole needs to near the bottom, which is where the spigot will eventually go. Three inches from the bottom should be ok, but don’t go too much higher. You don’t want to lose access to several inches of water in the bottom. The next hole needs to be near the top, offset at least 90 degrees from the bottom hole. This will be your overflow outlet, hopefully overflowing into another container via the hose you’ll attach later. It needs to be offset because we will assume that you will eventually pair this barrel with a second one catching your first barrel’s overflow, and you don’t want it blocking the spigot below.

 

With the only section of this project that I would call “work” behind you, you’re ready to attach your pieces. Get your Teflon tape and wrap the threads on the narrower end of the hose adaptor, the threads that are going inside the barrel. Take your hose adaptor and push that side through your top drilled hole. If the hole is tight, you might have to screw it in. Reapply Teflon tape if you have to. On the inside, place a rubber washer and then screw the PVC bushing onto the metal adaptor.

 

 

You’ll follow the same process for the spigot at the bottom. Wrap the metal threads with Teflon tape and push the spigot into the hole. You may need to screw the spigot in if the hole is a tight fit, and if so, make sure the Teflon tape is still in place afterward. Position a rubber washer on the inside and screw the bushing into place.

 

 

Take your overflow hose and attach it to the hose adaptor you installed at the top. This hose will drain water into a second container when this container is full.

 

Secure the mesh screen around the top of the barrel using your bungee cords. You’ll need to purify this water coming out before drinking it anyway, but this mesh can prevent leaves, sticks and some bugs or animals from getting inside.

 

Here is your finished product!

 

Some notes:

Once you get the system built, fill the barrel all the way up to the overflow hose and let it run out for a few minutes. You’re checking for leaks, especially at the bottom around the spigot. That kind of water pressure is likely to cause a leak in that bottom area, so then drain the barrel and take some silicon, caulk or other sealant and seal the leak on the inside and outside. Your overflow hose attachment isn’t nearly as likely to leak, nor will it matter as much if it does. There is much less pressure at the top hole than at the bottom. Once your sealant has dried, fill the barrel again and look for leaks.

It’s advisable to place your barrel in an elevated position, such as on top of a wooden platform. This allows gravity to work for you and gives space to place a large bucket or tub under the spigot. If you ask me, you need to be able to put a five gallon bucket under the spigot, at least.

Speaking of elevated platforms… If you build one, remember that a gallon of water weighs about 8.3 pounds. When your 55 gallon barrel is full, it’ll weigh over 460 pounds, container, parts, water and all. Platforms need to be very strong and stable. My kids play outside, don’t yours? Don’t make a mistake.

Funnel water from a roof! 500 square feet of roof can funnel 115 gallons of water from just one-half inch of rainfall. That’ll fill both your barrel and your overflow barrel if you started empty.

Don’t funnel water into your barrel from a shingled roof. These roofs contain contaminants that are extremely difficult to filter out. Try a metal roof or some corrugated plastic sheeting instead, it’ll be easier and cheaper than trying to arrange a way to filter out the stuff that shingles will dump into the water. Build yourself a greenhouse from hard plastic and funnel from that.

If your yard has a slope, position your barrels at the higher end if possible. Again, gravity can work in your favor.

Check your local laws. Some municipalities have people in positions of authority who may not respect your right to collect water. Arrange your barrels legally.

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9 Comments

  1. Anonymous October 30, 2019 at 07:45

    5

  2. Matt in Oklahoma October 30, 2019 at 08:31

    We used an IBC caged tote with a gutter funnel kit similar to this because the one we have isn’t made anymore

    https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-Rainwater-Collection-Residential-Downspouts/dp/B003E1RJVU

    The tote is set up 2 concrete blocks high, placed under the cage, to allow a 5gl bucket under it. We bought a garden hose spout attachment as well.

    https://www.amazon.com/DRAIN-ADAPTER-COARSE-Thread-FAUCET/dp/B071YD4CMZ

    The tote was wrapped in black plastic before filling to keep algae growth down and I placed them under the side of the house to reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits them.

    It’s our non potable source used for toilets, garden, cooling down chickens, softening digging areas and such.

    1 gallon a day isn’t enough and rain isn’t reliable on this side of the state.

  3. Pat A Hines October 30, 2019 at 12:23

    While your project is a good one for a near field expedient rain water collection system, a larger system makes more sense at a permanent homestead.

    Using 275 gallon food grade tanks that have valves installed are the deal. They’re readily available.
    https://charlotte.craigslist.org/grd/d/kannapolis-food-grade-water-tank/7007076971.html

  4. Retired October 30, 2019 at 12:53

    This type of article is valuable so thanks for posting it.

    Regarding roof water, I assume you need clean gutters to catch the water and direct it to the bucket, right? When the rain stops, how long can you keep water in the 55 gallon barrels and does water “go bad” if it just sits? If you live somewhere where there is lots of rain, shouldn’t you expand this system to include more barrels? Thanks again.

  5. Pat A Hines October 30, 2019 at 15:00

    @Retired

    Roof water is easily used as is for watering a garden and chickens and other livestock. To use as human potable water, I’d recommend you invest in a high performance water filter, the kind that takes all bacteria out of the water. Like Grey Man, I’m also a registered nurse (BSN, University of North Carolina) who is also a man. My wife is also a RN, and still working in the operating room. We were both US Army nurses specializing in operating room procedures. I present my credentials to assure you and others that I’m well versed on the need for clean, safe water for human consumption.

    Plan ahead for this, Grey Man is correct on the volume of water needed per person, more is better.

    Yes, water can “go bad” when it sits for a lone time, lots of things grow in water that you don’t want to consume. That’s why I recommend a filter system that avoids chemical treatments.

  6. The Gray Man October 30, 2019 at 17:04

    @Pat Hines: Yes, bigger is better in regards to water, and I would recommend this system for people who are on a tight budget, or for people who haven’t yet started to prep for water needs, or even for people who may not live in a permissive location and need to conserve space or conceal their barrels from those who would disagree on the need…

    @Retired: It would be nice to have clean gutters, but you don’t have to have sanitized gutters. You can also build your own PVC gutter funnel system with a debris valve to allow the initial roof debris to be shunted away from your barrels. That way, when your barrel fills, it may have dirt but it won’t be caked with leaves and sticks. I still recommend running the water through a system like a Berkey filter that can take dirt and tiny debris out of the water and make it drinkable immediately. If your area goes long periods without rain, as many, many areas of the US do, it would be advisable to filter and store the water in other containers inside. Get some of the five gallon green military water jugs. That’s what I have in my Jeep for emergencies. Also, yes, you should expand your system with more barrels if possible, and use that overflow hose so you don’t lose the excess when your barrel fills up.

    I’ll mention it to all one more time: I do not personally know of a system that takes shingle roof water and makes it drinkable. I’ve been told by people with more water expertise than I have that shingle roof water is suitable for little more than watering grass, and that’s just assuming you don’t plan on eating your grass. If I find definitive information backing that up or stating otherwise, I’ll post it here.

  7. Retired October 31, 2019 at 10:31

    @Pat and Grey:

    The reply button doesn’t work, so I came back and checked to find your responses. Thanks for answering.

    Ok, so roof water is best for non-human consumption but can be filtered for humans.

    • Gray Man October 31, 2019 at 12:37

      From metal roofs, yeah. Filter/purify the dirt and debris out like you would for lake water or any other source. Water from a shingle roof though, I am not aware of a safe filtration method to make it safe for drinking. Not yet, anyway.

  8. Pat A Hines November 2, 2019 at 17:01

    I don’t know why the replay button doesn’t work for me, I’m registered on this blog.

    Anyway, the question about water from a shingled roof. My roof is shingled with made-man “slate”, which is unusual to say the least. As far as I know, it has no noxious chemicals in it, but I’ve not tested that.

    Common shingles of the asphalt type could have some chemicals in them, but a high performance filtration system will clean those out. The question is, cost. High performance filtration systems are not cheap.

    The best use of roof water is to irrigate gardens, in my opinion. If you’re going to be in a location permanently, having a well dug is a good idea. Again, it’s a cost issue.

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