Kit packed and ready to go. Overall weight is slightly under 10 pounds. Magazine is for scale
As a teenager I read everything I could about Survivalism, and wanted to be as prepared as possible to carry what I needed on my back. Although I no longer think that the “Backpack Bugout” plan is the primary thing to do when the SHTF. I still like to keep things as portable as possible, or at least have a portable back up to something more heavy duty in my home.
Lee Hand Press
Some of the smaller items, some of which come with the Hand press kit.
One of the things I was concerned about was my ammo supply, and how I could maintain it if I could not access factory loaded ammo. I read some articles in Survive/ American Survival Guide (Feb., Mar ’84/ Feb ’85 and Dec ’87, yup, still have ’em) about portable hand loading and case improvisation (.45ACP/.308, 9mm/.223, etc.), and the Lee hand Press kit, and realized it was the perfect base to build a portable reloading kit from.
This is the 7.62x39S die set. I put the bullet sizing dies in with it also since I only need one of the round red containers to catch the bullets once sized.
Here’s the .45ACP dies. One of the things I like about Lee Dies is that they come with a powder scoop so you don’t need a measure for a separate device. Remember, this is field reloading, not precision bench rest reloading, and this type is accurate enough to load decent cartridges.
OK, so we’ve started with the reloading press that comes with a few accessories such as the Ram Prime for priming cartridges, a tube of brass resizing lubricant, and a powder funnel. Next, you need reloading dies for your specific cartridge. In this kit I have Lee Precision dies for 7.62x39s rifle, and .45ACP pistol, because they both work very well with cast lead bullets.
This is the 160 grain .30 caliber bullet mould. It can be used with most .30 calibers if sized correctly. .22 caliber (5.56x45mm) semi automatics are not good candidates for cast lead bullets (except for small game loads), due to the high velocity needed to make them effective stoppers. Lead bullets don’t do well at higher velocity.
This is the 225 grain .45ACP bullet mould
Next I have Lyman bullet moulds for both cartridges. The 7.62x39s has a 160 grain two bullet mould, and the .45ACP has a 225 grain two bullet mould. I like the Lyman moulds because I can use one set of handles for both. Along with the bullet moulds you will need a lead dipper (mine’s a Lyman) to pour lead into the moulds. I also use a small cast iron pan from Cabelas (Cracker Barrel has ’em too) to melt the lead initially, as it can be held over a fire with a multi tool, or attach a thick green branch to its handle with hose clamps.
Lead dipper on right and cast iron pan for melting lead over the fire. Deburring tool is shown to give scale to the cast iron pan.
Overall, the length of the longest item is only 12.6 inches (the hand press) and the lead dipper and mould handles are slightly shorter.
The other bullet sizing die in its original container along with a bottle of bullet lube.
If you are making/casting bullets, you will need sizing dies for those bullets to make them all of a uniform diameter. I use the Lee sizing dies (7.62x39s and .45ACP) because I can size them using the press instead of a separate sizing press.
Last but not least will be a case deburring tool (mine’s a Lyman) for taking the burrs off of the case mouth after you trim it. You will be shortening the brass as it gets stretched out from being fired. The shortening can be done with a multi tool file, but you definitely need a deburring tool after doing so.
The carrier is an old surplus gas mask carrier. I have a couple of these kits and all of them are in these types of bags.
When I pack the kit I put the dies in the bottom.
The bigger, bulkier items in the middle.
And the smaller items in the top. Make sure to put some padding (old dish towel, or some type of rags) in and around the containers for protection and noise reduction. Also it’s a good idea to put padding in the plastic containers to keep them from rattling.
After all is said and done, you have a portable reloading kit that weighs a little under 10 pounds. With the addition of your empty brass, you’ve hung on to, and the smokeless powder, primers, bullet and case lube and gas checks (if needed for one or both of your cast bullet types) you have in your cache, you can completely reload your cartridges in the field.
Whether you want to carry your kit with you, or place it in a cache, this kit will do what you need, when you need it to, and it’s as compact as a complete reloading kit can be. There are some who would use one of these. It dispenses with the need for a press, but without the press, you can’t size bullets or full length resize your brass.
This type of kit is very compact and simple, but you can’t size your cast bullets or full length resize your brass with it.
I will not discuss loading data here. There is a number of factors that go into it, and you need to do your own research on that info. This post is just to give you some insight into my kit, and maybe some ideas to send you in the right direction.
I have multiple kits like this for different calibers. When I first wrote this post a couple years ago, I used the 7.62x39S/.45ACP kit because it was sitting in the storage room and my .308/,45ACP kits were in a pack or a cache because they are my go to calibers (did you know you can make .45ACP brass out of .308Win brass?).
The contents of THIS kit have never been used, but other kits have, and in the field. The only item difference between my .308 kit and the 7.62x39S is the caliber specific die set. The bullet mould and everything else is the same. Keep something in mind, reloading in the field is not “optimal”. Casting bullets in the field, whether for smokeless or blackpowder firearms, is not “optimal. Having to scrounge empty brass in the field is definitely not “optimal”!
DSA brass catcher mounted on a ParaFAL
I have the ability to save brass in the field when using my primary rifle (FAL). This is with the help of a brass catcher made by DSA. It plugs directly into the upper receiver and gives me the option of holding the brass or opening the bottom, velcro secured, opening to let the brass fall at my feet. Brass catchers are available for most semi automatic mil type rifles (one AK type here).
Two views of the brass catcher with the bottom open and closed.
If you have the option, you won’t be scrounging wheel weights for bullet casting because you’ve layed up copper jacketed, commercially made bullets in the multiple caches you have extra powder and primers in. This is after you have laid back AT LEAST a case or two of commercially loaded ammo for the calibers in question and a ton of spare parts.
This post is about options for worst case. I can reload in the field. I can make bullets for my rifle and pistol in the field. If it’s not that bad, so much the better.
JCD
"Parata Vivere"-Live Prepared.
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It would be good to have this capability cashed. Powder can take up lots of space. If one is reduced to cast bullets with gas checks, then speeds should be limited to around 1,800fps, or leading will occur. A powder that I would use for cast or jacketed bullets out of .308, .30-06, or 7.62 x 39,, would be Red Dot or Trailboss, because it would not take up much space. Load data on the .30-06 using Red Dot ,or Trailboss, for cast and jacketed loads is plentiful. 150 grain boolit with 11 to 14 grains of Red Dot, and up to 18 grains of Trailboss is safe in .30-06. Look up articles from Ed Harris, The Load, and research Trialboss. 7000 grains/pound divided by 13 grains equals 538 charges for .30-06 using a 150 grain cast or jacketed boolit. Red Dot can be used in pistol, rifle and shotgun. Trailboss cannot be used in shotgun, but can be used without load data if the manufacturer’s guidelines are followed. I have both.
Agreed, that’s why I mentioned it.
“After all is said and done, you have a portable reloading kit that weighs a little under 10 pounds. With the addition of your empty brass, you’ve hung on to, and the smokeless powder, primers, bullet and case lube and gas checks (if needed for one or both of your cast bullet types) you have in your cache, you can completely reload your cartridges in the field.”
A .30 cal. bullet weighing in the 160’s out of a .308 with something like H4895 and a charge of around 30 or so grains (note, I’m not giving exact load data for a reason) can leave the bore at over 2,100 fps. I agree, something like Red Dot is useful and versatile ( Yes, I know about the old school 13gr. RD load that was advertised years ago by C.E. Harris and read what he wrote about it in the 12th edition from 1990 of the Handloader’s Digest, it was entitled, “The Load”. I’m lookin’ at that book on the shelf as I type this), but I also know I’d want to cache a rifle powder that will do well with jacketed bullets, because there will be some of those cached as well.
I do not have a portable kit, but do have a few Lee Loaders to be used for future bartering. Not many young hunters reload any more and a Lee Loader I think would make for a possible trade and maybe find a future ally. Certain regions seem to have favorite ammunition and having more than usual kits (or at least the dies) would be worth storing. Just food for thought – Thanks for the post.
I agree, and that is an excellent idea!
Nice little article chock full of info. including Blacks input regarding the Lee hand loader.I have a friend who introduced me to black powder cap and ball and a kirst cylinder for “cowboy loads”.He as I watched loaded about 20 with Lee and all 20 worked fine but will look into alts Black mentioned.I will say he is really into the whole cowboy shooting world and besides attending events ect. tries to keep it real which is fine for a hobby but not if your life depends on ammo for defense or a meal from hunting.He does cast his own ammo and many 5 gallon buckets of wheel weights when a tire shop near him closed for free.
Im only just tipping me toe into the reload world(match grade would be a waste on me/@ least for now)but have a friend who reloads who is giving me the basics to get started and has said no problem using his setup when I want.
I am a firm believer in the laying in of a “few”cases,then,as basics covered can learn new skills and,sigh……,spend more money.
Anything you can learn in this field is not a waste.
Really good article, and thought-starter…… thanks!!
Thanks
i was about to rip you, becasue of where i thought you were going to go, directly. you veered another way and then found the lee hammer kits.
i used them about 16 years ago. we did about 10 rounds over an hour. the problem is primers medium, will shake out, with all the hammering and not work. we averaged about 50% failure.
here is a better choice. a arbor press. this is what extreme accuracy shooters use , at range development . $109 for a press
https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/reloading-presses/single-stage-presses/sinclair-arbor-press-prod37764.aspx
then use this die set https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/reloading-dies/rifle-dies/bushing-neck-die-sets-prod117727.aspx
you still have the issue of hand priming. get a rcbs hand seater and use teh lee powder scoops for measuring.. i still don’t want to load that way, ever.
the best case lube. i have found is imperial sizing wax or a btsnipers swaging grease. i buy it by the 10 pounds.
Gee, thanks for not “ripping” me LOL. I’ll address one thing you said, “you still have the issue of hand priming”. No you don’t, that’s what the “Ram prime” device I mentioned here is for. “OK, so we’ve started with the reloading press that comes with a few accessories such as the Ram Prime for priming cartridges, a tube of brass resizing lubricant, and a powder funnel.”