More Low Powered Variable Optic Considerations: Engagement Cycle, by J89

In keeping with the discussion of the proliferation of the LPVO, there are some other considerations to keep in mind to be more effective and efficient at the employment and use of the system.

Many are familiar with the cycle of an infantrymen or similar processes for individual actions. The LPVO is no different. There is somewhat of a rhythm, rhyme or checklist to employing it most effectively.

  1. Determine how you are going to get your firing solution. This means the angle you are going to fire from and the ballistic hold you are going to apply given the available target. This can change rapidly and needs to be constantly reworked. As an example, if you whiff a shot at a guy at 350m, where he was giving you his entire torso (19” wide by 18” tall”, you may now be forced to make a hit on something that is more in tune with a 8-10” circle. The slop you can get away with may no longer be there. Some hasty methods for developing your hold in the field are:

 

    1. Shoot, see, shoot. Also known as spoiler or cheater rounds. You fire your best guess of a hold, spot impact, adjust, fire. The benefits to this is it can be quite fast. The downsides include the environment must support visible bullet splash. Your position must support recoil mitigation. If you plan on doing this for every shot…carry twice as much ammo… This method is best employed when given limited time (limited exposure) and the element of surprise is already lost. If using this method, it is best to miss low. High misses rarely make themselves visible. Low misses may clip hips and guts (still a hit). If using barrier defeating ammunition, depending on what the target is behind you still may connect. High misses just turned the engagement into whack a mole.
    2. Range Guesstimation. This method is very quick and should be running in the back of your mind at all times. There are a variety of methods for guessing range. The bottom line. Its all guessing. The best guys I know at guessing ranges are still guessing. Terrain, lighting, fatigue can all come into play and effect the accuracy of the guess. A simple method to help train this, or see how off your Mk1 eye ball is take a walk with a laser range finder. Guess the distance to various objects then check your work with a LRF. Do this in a variety of lighting conditions and environments. Guessing range, also requires you to know your holds for those ranges. This may be a photographic memory, or a cheat sheet on your magwell.
    3. Technology based. Using a LRF to determine a range is by far the most accurate, however not the most timely depending on the engagement window. It also means you must carry additional gear. Using a LRF in a LP/OP, DFP to build a range card is absolutely realistic and can greatly increase the capability of the force. LRF’ing every target in a running engagement…not realistic. Another method is using offline electronic mapping solutions (CIVTAK for the general public) and the static distance measuring tool. You can draw a line from your position to the target and receive a very accurate distance. Knowing the range is only half the battle. You still need to know your hold for that range.
    4. Reticle based. This method can be as in depth as using the mil relation formula for determing range, to a significantly simpler version of the rapid engagement technique (RET) that was mentioned in a previous article, to the simplest version is “hold top edge of target, incrementally hold higher until hit”. Depending on the degree you go down this rabbit hole, it can be field fast, deliver first round hits, and simple if rehearsed and practiced. Reticles with built in BDC/range finding marks also serve this role.

 

Regardless of how you get your firing solution. Just remember this needs to be trained. And can be trained without ammo. You can “mentally” shoot UKD ranges without firing a round. Determine your range/hold, then check your work with a LRF and ballistic calculator. See if what you mentally fired, would have connected.

 

  1. Once you have determined your firing solution, you must build a position that supports the degree of precision required to make the shot, while still being tactically feasible. What does that mean? Going prone, can give you a very high degree of precision and make shooting a relative ease. However in an environment where you are getting maneuvered on, or require increased visibility of your surroundings, prone may not be feasible. Determine the position that gives you the precision you need, not the precision you want. You do not need to build a position capable of 1 MOA groups, when shooting a 5 MOA target.

Building your position means nothing more than using what is at your disposal, to support your rifle and potentially help reduce the effects of recoil. Realistically this means lots of single or double knee positions (waist high walls, fences, downed trees, car hoods, windows), bent standing (walls at awkward heights) or upright standing (embankments, trenches, fences).

Building positions can too be trained dry. A folding aluminum ladder provides incremental levels you can use to practice various positions. Stick a piece of cardboard at 50m with a 1” white paster on it. Assume various positions, hold them, and watch your wobble zone as compared to the 1” paster (this translates to approx a 6” target at 300m). Dry fire press the trigger. Mentally walk through what your hold would be. If using a reticle based hold, hold that and visually become familiar with using not the center crosshairs for delivering rounds. The AMU is a huge proponent of “hold drills” (doing the above and holding the position for 60 seconds or so). Most places call this “snapping in”. It works. You will notice your wobble zone start to tighten with disciplined practice.

  1. The final part of this is the appropriate application of the fundamentals of shooting (trigger press) with follow through. Follow through is incredibly important here because it allows us to assess the effects of what we have just done. Did you miss, or hit. If it was a miss, what do I need to do to get a hit? If it was a hit, do I need to repeat, or can I move on? When pushing 5.56 at 400,500,600m it may not have the most spectacular effects on a target. However, I will take ice picks at 600m at the weight cost of 5.56 over more “spectacular” rounds.

 

Some other random thoughts on the subject:

  1. Get the hit you need. Not the hit you want. Engagements are mostly surprise events and fleeting opportunities. Sinking a round into the hips, may buy you more time to deliver more precise/accurate fire on vital areas.
  2. Realize big targets, can become little targets, and this precipitates a need for a more refined firing solution.
  3. Each shot is an individual effort.
  4. The information gained from the previous round fired, has a half life
  5. The target while obscured, may not be covered ballistically. Don’t be scared to feel out a not ballistic wall…ballistically

     

    To recap:

    1. Determine your firing solution
    2. Build your position
    3. Follow Through

    It all can and needs to be trained. It all can be trained dry, with great effect.

     

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About the Author: NC Scout

NC Scout is the nom de guerre of a former Infantry Scout and Sergeant in one of the Army’s best Reconnaissance Units. He has combat tours in both Iraq and Afghanistan. He teaches a series of courses focusing on small unit skills rarely if ever taught anywhere else in the prepping and survival field, including his RTO Course which focuses on small unit communications. In his free time he is an avid hunter, bushcrafter, writer, long range shooter, prepper, amateur radio operator and Libertarian activist. He can be contacted at [email protected] or via his blog at brushbeater.wordpress.com .

18 Comments

  1. Anonymous October 13, 2020 at 12:31

    4

  2. Paraclete October 13, 2020 at 14:12

    I highly encourage folks to seriously consider
    IOR Valdada 4×24 M1 30mm in either .308 or 5.56
    with BDC and Dragunov illuminated reticle
    Very reasonably priced…
    valdada.com

    • NC Scout October 13, 2020 at 14:16

      Love IOR. LOVE them. I have one of the old QR/TS 3x scopes they made on a short military contract run. Have it mounted on an AK in a RS Regulate 30mm scope mount.

    • Bud Green October 13, 2020 at 14:46

      Paraclete, I went and checked out their website , nice scopes but clearly out of my price range. I know I know buy once cry once but apparently you and I travel in different circles.

      • NC Scout October 13, 2020 at 14:54

        Check SWFA’s sample list. They usually have display models and lightly used trade ins for a healthy markdown.

      • Paraclete October 14, 2020 at 19:56

        Bud…if you notice the one which I’m referring
        to is the least expensive scope they carry.
        Typically, I wouldn’t have been able to acquire
        it but for an unusual turn of events…twenty
        years in the making…(long story, wouldn’t want
        to put you to sleep)
        The next best scope for the money is the
        Primary Arms 5x prism with the ACSS reticle.
        Liked so much picked up a second one…

    • Johnny Paratrooper October 13, 2020 at 14:59

      Interesting. I’ll look into these some more. Might make a nice birthday present to myself. Those are some fancy price tags. I’ll stay in the Demo/Display model section…

      • NC Scout October 13, 2020 at 16:14

        I cannot recommend SWFA’s Super Sniper scopes enough.

        There’s going to be a lot more on them after the next Scout Course in TN.

        • Johnny Paratrooper October 13, 2020 at 16:37

          Noted and Bookmarked.
          I’m a Leupold TMR guy. So my long range philosophy is “Measure twice, Shoot twice”
          The TMR has a learning curve of it’s own. But it is rather accurate when used properly with a trick or two using known variables (Like the size of a man’s eyeball being consistent, and almost always available. Or, you can also use their weapon, since that is always visible)

          I find factors like the rim size of a vehicle, helmet size, or the old “18-20 inch shoulder width” to be hard to use. For obvious reasons like your target not standing broadside, or Vehicles rims being 14-15-16-17 inches, or Helmet size being small, medium, large, extra large.

          An AK is always the size of an AK, And AR is always the size of an AR, and an Eyeball/Socket is basically the same size on all sexes and races, even if your target is an 18 year old 120lbs military age male, or a 350 linebacker. The eyeball is also small, so it fits in your 2MOA bar nicely(The TMR uses a mixed of hash marks. Full, Half, and Quarter)

          I like to find which one fits for known distance. If it doesn’t fit one or the other, it is half way. So my target is not 300 or 400, but likely 350ish(Or not 600 or 800 even, so it must be 700ish) Which works better than you would think. But it takes more practice than most people are comfortable with. And it helps to have someone pass this knowledge firsthand, and proof the concept with you on a range.

          I then fire two shots, One on target, wait for the terminal effect(Or physical response) If I miss Correct(Using the TMR as a Bracketing Metric) and fire again. I nearly always hit my targets first or second try if I have a good position. (Square ranges don’t count). One problem I have at long range(past 1000ish yards/meters) is my bullets “Jumping” over my target because I am not properly supporting the rear of my rifle. Causing a “Hail Mary” effect.

          If I forget something on the range. It’s not checking to make sure my sack is tight in the rear…

          Always make sure your sack is tight in the rear. That’s what I always say…

    • Quietus October 13, 2020 at 16:31

      Good rugged scope, though mine’s an M2, a little bit shorter than the M1. The rotary illumination switch activation is too easy, I need to keep tape on it. Have had it for more than twenty years.

      Currently it’s on a 1943 Long Branch No 4 Mk 1*. Good combo, shoots real good with South African ’80s ball and SMK handloads, and it even passes first glance as being a (T) rifle.

      • Johnny Paratrooper October 13, 2020 at 18:26

        I’m curious what these rifles are. I assume you are referencing some older 1940’s weapons, possibly a British Enfield. Judging by the (T) designation.

        I didn’t know they rebarreled these in 7.62.

        • Quietus October 14, 2020 at 10:52

          The 1943-made Long Branch (Ontario Canada) is in .303. South Africa called that round 7.7 x 53R and they made some fine ammo, I still have a bunch of it.

          Quite a few Enfield No. 4 rifles were converted to 7.62 NATO, and some were made new. The conversions are called L8A(pick a number 1 through 5, depending on the host.) Two other designs also used old No 4 receivers, they were called L39A1 or L42A1.

          In case of wondering about using the IOR Valdada’s 7.62 NATO’s BDC with the .303- it is not a precise match, but it is workable with some user dope added. I’d call it better overall than the Parker Hale glass on the original (T) rifles, and good enough for a second-line bolt gun. Rifle is bedded and floated to Bisley standards but with acraglas instead of shims.

          • Johnny Paratrooper October 14, 2020 at 14:17

            Cool. Thanks for the info.
            You sound quite knowledgable.

          • Quietus October 15, 2020 at 00:36

            This to Johnny Paratrooper. True story time, and worthy of some rumination.

            Back in ’06 or so, I was working at one of the NW Arkansas M1911 shops. There was an older green-card South African engineer there working in design.

            We got to talking one day. He’d joined some mounted constabulary org as a youngster. He liked shooting rifles and got on his org’s rifle team. They competed against teams from the Army and the Air Forces and did all right with their .303 No. 4 rifles, even after the higher speed forces converted to the FAL. He never mentioned what course of fire that they competed on, bolt guns v autoloaders. He said there was no problem keeping up with the competition who were shooting FALs, the latest and greatest rifle at the time.

            Then a change came, the constabulary modernized to the L8A_-type guns in 7.62 NATO. He said that they could no longer keep up with the FAL-runners. He said that they could not run their bolts fast enough. Difference, is the tapered case of the .303 versus the mostly straight-walled 7.62 NATO case. He was making the case adhesion-to-chamber argument. A tapered case is going to be extracted easier than a straight-wall case. I thought that his story was real interesting.

            During the same conversation, he put out the thought that the AK’s reputation for running well in bad environments with poor maintenance, is as much due to a tapered case than it is to the fine design of the AK.

            After poor British Army performance with rifles against the Boers, some changes got made. There came to be better rifle instruction by Lord Roberts, and an established course of fire against Zombies.

            COF was one minute’s fire on a large black bullseye at 300 yards. Winner was a sergeant in 1914. He got 39 hits running a bolt gun, in one minute. That would require six stripper clip rechargng of the gun. Most of us don’t train that hard. Best I could ever do on that COF was 24 rounds out with 16 hits on the black with irons, during that Mad Minute COF.

  3. boss21 October 13, 2020 at 17:28

    Super Sniper are serious value. Have IOR scopes since they set up shop in this country when David Fortier was praising them on Shotgun News. . Great scopes even if their adjustment knobs were a mess at the start.
    The first ‘long range’ scope I ever got was a Shepard. Took a hard life and still works great on a 300 WSM. For practical field use their reticles were years ahead of the rest. Shepard makes many scopes for the more well known/expensive brands. You can get them direct here,https://shepherdscopes.com/product/rugged-1-8×24-2/ https://shepherdscopes.com/product/brs-1-8×28/
    Like US Optics they have many scope/reticle options but more reasonably priced.

    • NC Scout October 13, 2020 at 17:50

      Shepard is good stuff too. I actually didn’t know if they were still around. That’s good to know.

  4. Max M Wiley October 15, 2020 at 15:22

    It seems that Cooper’s “The Art of the Rifle” and proper use of a sling is as relevant now as it ever was.

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