Getting the Most Out of Your Surplus Rifle By Johnny Paratrooper

Like many of you, I have purchased several rifles over the last decade, and with each purchase, I grabbed as much ammo as my bank account could handle. I prefer military surplus rifles and the cheaper the better. I enjoy their history and craftmanship; Plus, they can be pretty good shooters with some TLC and a good load. As long as they aren’t “shot out” so to speak. A “shot out” surplus rifle needs a new barrel and, most likely, a new stock. When I purchase ammo, I stick to the same brand and same load. Like the military, I don’t need dozens of different rifle/ammo combinations to remember. Recently, during my crew’s last trip to the range, the Fighting Kalashnikov Carbine Course run by Brushbeater Training, I noticed that our rifles had a variety of ammo for the same weapon type. In the realm of firearms, my biggest headache, was purchasing a Mosin-Nagant 91-30 and a grab bag of 900 rounds of 7.62x54r ammo. Sorting out my surplus Mosin-Nagant was a headache to say the least, but lesson learned.
I had three major problems with my Mosin-Nagant 91-30 after the first range trip.

  1. What went wrong with zeroing my Mosin-Nagant 91-30?
  2. Why was I shooting 6” groups at 25 meters?
  3. Why would it fire 4-5 round clover shaped holes and then throw a bunch of wild misses?

Being wholly unexperienced with this firearm, I fully disassembled it, including the bolt to see what the problem was. Starting at the barrel, I noticed no nicks or dents on the crown, which was my first guess. Next, I assumed it must be locking up incorrectly, eventually I learned that rimmed cartridges headspace on the rim, and the lockup felt solid. Following a complete detailing of the bolt I proceeded to polish the hell out of this weapon. I used burnishing compound on the chamber, receiver, the barrel, and the bolt parts that contact each other. When firing commercial poly-coated, steel case rounds to break in the barrel, and save my primary mil-spec cartridges, I noticed my bolt sticks hard, but not with mil-spec ammo, which operates quite smoothly. I inspected the weapon for bulging in the barrel, pitting, scaring, and any other undue damage to locate the source of inaccuracy. The weapon was completely covered in Cosmoline when I purchased it, so this process was a second pass/inspection to make sure I had successfully cleaned the Cosmoline completely out of the firearm. There was no Cosmoline to speak of. The weapon was in great condition. I cleaned the weapon and continued to triple check everything. I was, without a doubt, confused and annoyed.
Since I had the weapon fully disassembled, I decided to seal it up from the elements, paint it black, properly torque the screws, and bolt on a bunch of “upgrades” to the weapon. This involved a bunch of sanding, and quite a bit of measuring and drilling. It took some time but was a good practice project for more serious and expensive rifles. After the weapon was assembled, and the new optic was mounted, I decided that I must have solved the accuracy issue. Certainly, the iron sights were the problem, not the Amazon and Optics Planet parts I had bolted to the weapon.

Sadly, that was not the case… (Foreshadowing…)

I wasted another half-day at the range trying to zero this weapon, and I consistently had the same problem. A few good groups, and a bunch of wild misses that would sometimes produce groups. After returning from the range, I sent a quick text to a friend of mine, who is a trophied precision shooter, and he responded that it must be a problem with my ammo if the rifle looks good. He noted that it could be several reasons, most likely the ammo was old, and therefore the powders and primers were not burning consistently. This theory would explain the wild groups at 25 meters, but I didn’t have any hang fires or excessive ignition times. Plus, I don’t own a chronograph to test this theory. I was beginning to think that I had ruined this rifle in some way. His second answer is that that gun was made by commies and therefore useless. I disagree with this notion. Communists make some great weapons, most are composite designs of western tech, and are more than functional.
When I inspected my ammo at his request, I noticed that I had several different types of head stamps on just one handful of cartridges. The ammo, which is the copper washed, lacquer sealed, steel core, steel case variety turned out to be a mix of production lots. While they all looked exactly the same, I had two .50 caliber ammo cans mixed with 5 different lots of ammo. I had 400 hundred rounds of one, 300 of another, 80, 40, and lastly, 13 rounds of different headstamp. I sorted these rounds diligently, taking a considerable amount of time with a headlamp to correctly read the headstamps without straining my eyes too much. I separated the rounds over the course of an hour or more, loaded up my bandoliers with one, loaded the rest of my stripper clips with the same, and used doubled up ziplock bags to keep the other lots of rounds separate. I also tested all of my stripper clips after polishing the charger lips on the rifle. I threw away about 25% of the clips because they were impossible to feed into the gun. This was good practice, and, I loosened up and smoothed out the lips.
On my next range trip, I had one lot of ammo, all marked with the same headstamp. My groups were acceptable, printing a neat thumbnail sized cloverleaf group of 5 rounds at 25 meters. A few clicks left, right, up, and down produced a zeroed weapon. In another lesson, once my rounds had been sorted, I noticed that my Mosin-Nagant has a predictable thermal shift. I noticed that my groups would drift down and to the right slightly. After my first reload, I need to hold slightly up and to the left of my target in a predictable manor. The lesson here is simple, I shouldn’t fire more than 5 rounds, or my rifle is only useful for area targets and/or suppression of an enemy position. The weapon cools relatively quickly, especially in cold weather, but during the high noon sun of the summer, it can take a considerable amount of time to cool between 5 round groups. This can take almost 30 minutes with the bolt open. I considered pouring water down the barrel to cool the weapon faster and drawing a bore snake through to clear the water drops out so my point of impact will return to normal but did not bother testing it. I have no doubt this method will work and saw no sense in wasting the ammo during these times. I need to test this theory, but I decided to save the rounds for a zero confirmation at a later date.
In short, designing and building my Partisan-Nagant, was a little bit of a headache for what was supposed to be a $300 surplus gun with standard mil-spec ammo. I was certain the ammo would index on the factory zero, but that was wildly optimistic. I also made some mistakes. I should have sanded out the stock to make more room for the barrel, but there is no way to know, at this point, whether or not that would have worked. After a few range trips, I finally got it sorted out. I have two optics on the weapon, a red dot zeroed at 25 meters and a “Long Eye Relief Scope” zeroed at 25 meters plus two inches high. The LERS should connect somewhere around 300 meters with an 8” cone of fire, but I need to test this.
Using two optics, I have several options for zeroing my weapon. I can use the red dot for a close range zero or put a 100 meter zero on the red dot. For my scope I can put a long range zero on the weapon scope. I can also put one cold bore zero on the weapon, and another hot bore zero on the weapon. I can also make a DOPE book for this rifle and record the number of clicks for the scope. So that I can account for the thermal shift after a fixed number of rounds. Because the optics I chose are of a cheaper quality, the weapon requires a round or two to set the adjustment of the scope. But I have several options. I haven’t decided exactly how I am going to zero this rifle, but I think I will keep the standard 25 meter zero. The rifle, which looks like a Science Fiction prop, gets a few odd looks at the range, but the groups don’t lie. And the steel core rounds are not a joke.
The moral of the story is that you should sort your surplus ammo, and double check to make sure you aren’t mixing lots. Different lots of ammo have slightly different loading components, and they rarely connect on the same point of aim. It’s important to take the time to sort these little problems out now. Also, there is something to be said for having two optics on your gun. You can have two perfectly zeroed optics for known distance engagements. This gives you a high degree in certainty, and thus high morale, and in turn a high rate of success, when you are sabotaging, suppressing, or sniping. To date, there is no size of tree, nor species of tree, that has stopped one of these steel-core bullets in my testing. Which is considerable.
Let me know what you think in the comments. I am curious to know what your experiences are with surplus rifles.

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About the Author: NC Scout

NC Scout is the nom de guerre of a former Infantry Scout and Sergeant in one of the Army’s best Reconnaissance Units. He has combat tours in both Iraq and Afghanistan. He teaches a series of courses focusing on small unit skills rarely if ever taught anywhere else in the prepping and survival field, including his RTO Course which focuses on small unit communications. In his free time he is an avid hunter, bushcrafter, writer, long range shooter, prepper, amateur radio operator and Libertarian activist. He can be contacted at [email protected] or via his blog at brushbeater.wordpress.com .

38 Comments

  1. Shillelagh Pog February 3, 2021 at 12:17

    I also have found this out the hard way, with the MN platform. I don’t know why the x54 ammo cans have multiple manufacturers and boxes thrown in, but they do. I guess it’s because I concentrated on Case quantity for the 5.56 and the x39, not the x54.
    Your points and recommends are all valid! Thanks for the write-up

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 13:07

      Thanks Brother! It was a lot of work and wanted to share my success with you guys. The rifle gets a lot of compliments at the range. Until the thermal shift sets in and then everyone starts taking bets.

  2. Anonymous February 3, 2021 at 12:35

    5

  3. Half wolf February 3, 2021 at 12:46

    Is your ammo from a sealed can ? I bought some in the can, ill have to check the batch #s. I tried mounting a LER scope with a cheap adapter kit, couldn’t get it to hold zero. My range only has a 1, 2 and 300 yard range. Haven’t tried the 300 but at 100 I can get it on target with the iron sights consistently. The drift didn’t seem to bad. For long distance it would make a big difference.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 13:00

      I received some ammo in the accessory bandolier pouches. Some in a sealed Soviet SPAM can, and some in separate boxes. I then proceeded to mix the ammo loose in brand new .50 cal ammo cans. I inspected the rounds for corrosion and damage.
      In theory, the SPAM can should have been one lot of ammo. I purchased the rifle and ammo combination from a friend was simply isn’t an avid shooter.
      Judging by the groups on the 25 meter target, I should be grouping on a paper plate at 300 yards. My Mosin is a 1943 unissued wartime production. It looks rough, but the Soviets never skipped out on safety and quality control. They simple forgo the extra polishing to remove machine marks. This is true of all surplus rifles.
      Which adapter kit do you have? I drilled out my stock and side mounted a 20 MOA shotgun scope rail. Then I used cheap .45 degree offset light mounts that matched my LER Scope. I used levels, magnets, and lasers to get everything square plumb and level. The scope was “Off” and I nearly bottomed out on windage adjustment, but I was successful and can simply hold on the belt buckle and she groups in the center of the chest @ 300ish meters. Which means the rifle is likely zeroed for 450ish meters with a 12 inch cone of fire. It’s always worked with machine guns and M4’s. I have no reason to doubt it would work for a Mosin Nagant.
      Sounds like your weapon isn’t as dangerous as it could be… I can talk you through this.

      • Half wolf February 3, 2021 at 13:43

        Been a couple years ago, don’t remember the company but it replaced the rear sight, had 3 rails. Yeah my cross hairs were bottomed out with it. I’d like to try the scope made for the gun but not sure the replicas are any good. My astigmatism is pretty bad so any scopes with parallax im just wasting ammo. Running low on ammo for it now. Prices I’ve seen have tripled since I bought any.

  4. Mike February 3, 2021 at 13:05

    A lot of people vastly underestimate how potent a bolt gun can be in the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing. A friend of mine sometimes takes his bolt-action Remington to 2-gun competitions and beats guys with AR-15s.

  5. wwes February 3, 2021 at 13:06

    Cool article!
    All of my sealed cans have always been consistent and from the same plant and date within a can. Even Russian stuff from the 40’s and 50’s has been great. The Hungarian and Bulgarian stuff has been even better than the Russian stuff for me. My only problems have come from batches of mixed lots of ammo that I have picked up here and there, like what you described.
    Just make sure to clean the rifle properly after shooting ANY surplus ammo, as it’s all corrosive. That goes for pretty much all of the combloc ammo, in any caliber.
    One thing that can help a mosin is shimming the action and wrapping the barrel. Used to you could buy the shim kits for $15-$20, but I haven’t looked for one in a while.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 13:54

      Thanks man! I really appreciate it.
      I wish I bought the Shim Kit you mentioned and the trigger spring kit another mentioned.
      Hopefully someone finds this comment section helpful.
      The 7.62x54r cartridge is a beast of a bullet. Especially the Steel Core flavor. Goodnight to whatever it hits!

      • wwes February 3, 2021 at 14:35

        If I can find the shim kit again I’ll post the link in case someone can get some use out of it. A buddy had a 91/30 PU sniper that it made a huge difference in. I’m pretty sure that the 91/30 PU sniper I had already had the shims, it would shoot 1.5 MOA with surplus ammo.

  6. Vinman February 3, 2021 at 13:16

    M-CARBO has an excellent trigger upgrade kit for the mosin

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 13:51

      The weapon is sealed up. I’m done messing with it. 20/20 was last year…
      MCarbo makes some really great stuff.
      I installed the Extra Power AK spring in my buddies AK. It lives up to the reputation. And for $20? What a deal!

  7. HP February 3, 2021 at 13:26

    Good article. I took an old cosmo coated MN and fully disassembled literally the whole thing, 2-tone dura coated (I know, it was a decade ago) all the metal, and refinished the wood. Turned out beautifully. Reassembled and test fired it once with 5 rounds. Shot pretty good. Haven’t touched it since. Not a bad rifle for $150.
    Hey Johnny what kind of optic mount did you use, and how did you attach?

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 13:37

      I agree. For $300 I have more weapon and ammo than I can rightfully carry. I purchased 200 stripper clips for like $40 bucks.
      For the scope mount? I took a shotgun slug 20 MOA scope base, side mounted it using lasers, levels, and magnets to make sure it had a nice square plumb and level bore to rail axis. I used two aluminum flashlight .45 degree mounting brackets that I modified with with a drill press and some stainless steel retail hardware. I locktited the whole thing. The red dot is mounted on the Amazon rail mount. I used extra hardware to mount it solid.

  8. hitman February 3, 2021 at 15:08

    Good work! My neighbor put a cheap scope mount and scope on his MN and I watched him waste bunches of ammo trying to zero it. Just a bullet hose, and it was better with just the Iron sights. Not really my cup of tea. More of a Mauser type. I did buy an M38 Lee Harvey Oswald gun a while back for the heck of it. Haven’t done anything but just look a t it so far. Pretty darn crusty! LOL

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 16:09

      It’s important to use good parts. Or, you gotta get creative.

  9. SOG February 3, 2021 at 15:32

    https://promagindustries.com/archangel-mosin-nagant-opfor-precision-rifle-stock-black-polymer-includes-aa762r-02-10-rd-magazine/
    more cheese on your pizza $ but a way to drop in the mosin in a modern chassis,this may have provisions for scope mounting.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRLPUFLQ_V0
    timney makes an upgraded trigger for these surplus rifles as well.
    sold mosin and mauser, #regret:(

    • Tom Richards February 3, 2021 at 18:22

      The promag archangel stock is great! Comfortable, adjustable, recoil reducing. Add a match trigger, and you’re back on the game!

  10. Mas Casa February 3, 2021 at 18:53

    Good article, JP! My first MilSurp was a Century Garand with a 1943 marked barrel. Bought another Garand, this time from CMP, after my second Iraq outing. Now, to me, the Finnish M-Ns are the bee’s knees due to better accuracy and just plain neat history.
    I vaguely recall a quote where someone described the bolt actions of the World Wars, ‘The British brought a battle rifle, the Germans brought a target rifle, and the Russians brought a carrying handle for a bayonet.’ Good on you for sticking with the rifle. I’ve heard straight bolts are easier for left handers to manipulate.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 19:48

      Thanks Brother! I’m jealous of your Garand. Those are great guns. I should have built one when they were $600-700.
      I personally believe that straight bolts are simply better. You actually have something to wack if you get a sticky bolt. They just look funny so people think they are somehow inferior. When in reality, its probably the superior design.
      The old saying goes like this,
      “The British went to war with a battle rifle, the Americans a target rifle, the Germans a hunting rifle, and the Russians… well they just went to war…”
      Pretty funny. But not really true. All these guns were tested expensively. And they could have copied, stolen, licensed, or designed any gun they wanted. Granted, we can all agree the barley corn sight sucks on the Mausers, the Mosin trigger sucks, the 1903 is a delicate gun (I have broken one before disassembling it), and the Enfield is a heavy pig that looks like it gets caught on stuff and has pokey edges.
      Regardless of whatever you have; Test, test, and test some more. It took about 30 hours to get this rifle square away. It was a HEADACHE brother let me tell you.

  11. Garand69 February 3, 2021 at 20:08

    A Man that knows his rifle is a formidable foe! Johnny you have done more to know your Rifle than 99% of “Gun Owners”. Well done!
    The majority of my life I have been a mil-surp guy, mostly because of budget, and I know full well the radical differences in consistency with various lots, countries, and years of surplus ammo. For my M1 Garands, the Danish ammo from the 90’s was like shooting match ammo. I always tried to keep my ammo separate, but there is always that 20 rounds here and hell even 10 rounds there, if the price was right and it was my caliber I would grab it, and it would go in the plinking bucket.
    Now if you really want to be shocked what that Mosin can do, invest in 50 cases of unprimed Prvi Partizan brass and work up a load for her. If you only fire them in 1 rifle, the brass only needs neck sizing and occasional trimming and they will last you a good while.
    Keep up the good work!

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 22:04

      Thanks brother. I appreciate it.
      That’s what I hear about most guns. Especially the bolt guns that are more gentle on brass. I’ll save that for a rainy day.

  12. Bud Green February 3, 2021 at 20:54

    Well our buddy JP finally made the jump from the comments section to writing an article and a well written article it is.
    Thank you Johnny P. you did well my friend.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 3, 2021 at 22:52

      Thanks! I just put the finishing touches on two new articles. And I am starting a third tomorrow about different types of targets.

  13. Quietus February 3, 2021 at 22:29

    Brownell’s Acraglas is your friend (green box, not red box.) Bedding the action (especially the recoil lug) will keep the steel from floating around in its wood. Up front, you want to have the barrel channel relieved in such a way that there are no pressure points- you want to be able to move the barrel up and from side to side. Once you have those clearances at the front end, most all will shoot better by being stabilized with a few pounds of upward pressure applied a couple inches behind the stock’s forend cap. This is done with a dab of the Acraglass, you’re supporting and fixing the barrel by giving it one place to rest. That will likely get rid of most of your wandering problems from heat.
    Mentioned in an earlier comment, the people who have used shim kits sold commercially have had good luck with them. But it’s still good to glass in the action and its recoil lug, since all that stabilizes the action to its wood is two screws. Stocks were inletted in wartime production conditions, with “good enough” being a passing score. Lots of lateral and fore-and-aft movement can occur when the metal and the wood are not tight together at the recoil lug.
    Mosin Nagant triggers have much overtravel past striker release. They benefit from an overtravel setscrew installed at the top rear of the triggerguard. I’d recommend going for just 90% of the overtravel, not all of it. Murphy has a say. Use blue loc-tite as you install and adjust the screw.

    • Brick February 5, 2021 at 10:10

      I put an Archangel stock on one of Mosins and the overtravel of the trigger was too much for it to function.
      So I installed a timney trigger – Wow what a difference!
      The Archangel allows for a 10 round mag too:
      https://www.midwayusa.com/product/3357460248/

  14. Georgiaboy61 February 4, 2021 at 00:33

    @ Johnny Paratrooper
    Just a quick FYI…. a company called S&K Insta-Mount makes “no drilling necessary” scope mounts for a variety of modern and vintage mil-surp firearms. Their products work as advertised and since they require no permanent alteration of your old war horse, you can restore it to original form any time you like.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 4, 2021 at 11:32

      Thanks brother! I’ll keep this in mind If I purchase another Mosin.
      I like my setup. It looks like a Science Fiction Prop. And no-one else owns a gun that looks like mine.

  15. KOBK February 4, 2021 at 10:37

    Don’t own any surplus bolt actions but have messed with several owned by others. My Dad is a big Mauser 98 fan and can certainly see why. All his have been rebuilt by excellent gun smiths in various calibers and they are real shooters.
    Seems to me the best built quality wise surplus bolt action and ammo is the Swiss K31. I get that some could argue it has not been properly battle tested but it’s a rock solid gun with some excellent design features like the sights and more.
    And the GP-100 was all loaded to match specs if memory serves.
    When I became aware and interested in the K31 rifle and ammo were fairly available and reasonably priced. Now both rifle and ammo are not easy to find and very expensive when it pops up in this neck of the woods.
    The 7.5x55mm ammo appears to be under-loaded a bit and in the .308’ish range. Have thought a .308 K31 would be very interesting but when I look at the cost of such an adventure might as well go for a well tuned Remington 700 in .308 which certainly is battle tested. And that’s exactly what I’ve done. Easy to modify and get parts for a 700.
    Excellent article JP, I’ll forward it to a good friend who has invested in the MN platform. I’m sure he will enjoy and learn from it.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 4, 2021 at 11:35

      Thanks my friend. Yeah, those K31’s and K11(?) I think that’s the designation, are great rifles.
      Those guns were extensively tested under Biathlon conditions in some harsh mountains.
      G11 is the ammo you are referencing. It’s basically a 400 yard point target death sentence.
      You used to be able to get one of those rifles and a pile of ammo for like $300-400.
      Those days are LONG gone.

      • HillBilly Jack February 4, 2021 at 13:56

        I love my K-31 so much I designed a scope mount that fits it perfectly! Using the old Shepherd P-2 scope it matches up great with the GP11 ammo. The 7.5×55 Swiss is a dead ringer for the 308.
        The demand has picked up in Switzerland for this mount. Enjoy the video!
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP02hYPFKLA

  16. Hillbilly Jack February 4, 2021 at 12:45

    Here are some suggestions.
    1. I run my milsurp ammo thru a Lee factory crimp die. This will shrink your groups, by creating uniform start pressure. It helps you overcome powder charge loads that vary slightly in east block surplus ammo. I have been crimping both steel and brass surplus for years with great results in 8MM and 54r.
    2. The Mosin nagants and russian captures set in armory’s up and down the east bloc country’s for over half a century pickling in a Russian Cosmoline this stained the bore. Your bore may have strong sharp rifling but has a dull hue in the bore. I remove this using a product called never dull. If the stain is left in the bore we found a loss of accuracy in 5 to 10 shots. You could clean the bore and accuracy would come back but fall off again. This is what we decided stain was causing powder fouling this was the same with new or surplus ammo.
    3. If you are using a strap on clamp on pin on mount good luck holding zero. The 54r is the Russian equivalent of our 30 06 .
    4. Denis Prisbreby did a article Tactical weapons August/Sept 2015 on a build using our components.” Maximize Your Mosin” He used my suggestion to crimp surplus ammo.
    His performance with my gen 1 system 100yrds
    Horanday 174 BTHP 2696 fps group 0.75
    Russian 1978 FMJ N/A group 0.69
    Winchester 180 JSP 2641fps group 1.38
    I can posts videos if anyone is interested. I don’t know how to post a pdf of the article.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 4, 2021 at 13:18

      Thanks!
      As usual, the old saying “the real genius and the real jokes are in the comments” comes true yet again.
      I’m going to test this on my rifles ASAP.

    • KOBK February 4, 2021 at 13:35

      Wow Hillbilly Jack, that’s some great info !
      Thank you Sir.

  17. Karl Dahl February 4, 2021 at 13:37

    One thing I appreciate about this community is the reduced tendency for random retards to sound off about “polishing turds,” “you are better off buying item Y just like me.” This tends to happen most often when discussing firearms, for some reason. ;)
    It is as if this community understands that such articles present relevant *principles* about items you may have currently, or are readily available in attics, closets, etc. without a trip to the gun shop, ahem. Guerrilla gunsmithing is extremely relevant, as NC Scout has been hinting at in ME/SA pieces.
    Great article, JP!

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 4, 2021 at 15:58

      Guerilla gunsmithing is not just a meme. It freaking works!
      The problem with Guerilla-smithing a rifle is that you lots of need time, testing, and patience.
      I put about 30 hours into this gun, and 3 trips to the range with 150-200 rounds used total.
      Once I realized the first test was total failure, with about 50-60 rounds all over two targets, I knew it was time to trouble shoot something.
      The second test produced actual groups I could read, so I locktite’d everything down and torqued it to spec.
      The third test produced two zeroed optics, and I confirmed the thermal shift. I saved to the target too, So I know when, and where the shift occurs. I can “Read” the target so to speak, because I recorded impacts with a friend, and then we numbered the target after.

  18. Half wolf February 4, 2021 at 14:27

    Damn it, now I’ve got the bug again to accurize mine.

    • Johnny Paratrooper February 4, 2021 at 16:00

      You have the benefit of my lessons and the comments section.
      Technically, you can make a better rifle than mine with zero thermal shift(Probably) and less wasted ammo.

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