Lubricating the Kalashnikov

Originally published a year ago, re-published due to demand. -NCS
I got a number of emails asking about lubricating the AK from my preliminary review of Palmetto State Armory’s GF3 Triangle Side Folder. The Kalashnikov action doesn’t require much lube the same way the AR action does, which is more like an engine piston, but it does require lubricant in the spots where metal meets metal, namely the bolt cam and the guide rails on the receiver.
Back in Afghanistan, some of the Afghans we were partnered with were having reliability issues with their AMD-65s. The AMD is a 12.5in barreled Hungarian AK designed for Paratroopers, and you can recognize it by its distinct forward grip, single wire folding stock, and obnoxiously loud muzzle break. While its the lightest AK I’ve ever used, its also the one that I saw give the most trouble. A big part of it was the shortened gas system that cycled a bit weak, and when coupled with the rendered animal fat they used for lubricant (PKMs smelled like lamb when firing) it led to problems. So when I was scrambling to learn all thing Kalashnikov to better train these guys I stumbled onto Jim Fuller using grease on a few points of the AK as an effective lube. It worked, making their AMDs live up to the reliability expectations.
Maintenance on the Kalash is ridiculously easy, but because its an open action using a high viscosity lube like CLP can have a short life is a dirt and dust magnet. Ball joint grease works a lot better, as does White Lithium Grease, and both are staples around anything mechanical. Here’s a more detailed look at how I lube my AKs:
1. Strip the cover and recoil spring from weapon.

2. Pull the bolt and bolt carrier and remove the bolt.

3. Apply a couple of dabs of lithium grease. You do not need much.

4. Replace the bolt and rotate it a few times to completely coat the bolt cam and groove.

5. Lubricate the rail guides on both sides of the bolt carrier.


6. Slide the bolt carrier back into place. The grease on the bolt carrier will lubricate the bolt guide rails on the receiver.


7. Replace the recoil spring and work the action a few times to further lubricate the rails.

8. Dry fire to perform a functions check, replace the top cover, and wipe away any excess grease on the outside of the receiver.

And that’s it- it really is that simple. Keeping that weapon well lubed will keep it reliable, and that lithium grease will stick to the action for much longer than a liquid lubricant will, and won’t spray everywhere out of the action while firing.
Know how to maintain your gear, whatever it is. Keep that weapon in the fight!

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By Published On: February 1, 2021Categories: NC Scout, Weapons16 Comments on Lubricating the Kalashnikov

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About the Author: NC Scout

NC Scout is the nom de guerre of a former Infantry Scout and Sergeant in one of the Army’s best Reconnaissance Units. He has combat tours in both Iraq and Afghanistan. He teaches a series of courses focusing on small unit skills rarely if ever taught anywhere else in the prepping and survival field, including his RTO Course which focuses on small unit communications. In his free time he is an avid hunter, bushcrafter, writer, long range shooter, prepper, amateur radio operator and Libertarian activist. He can be contacted at [email protected] or via his blog at brushbeater.wordpress.com .

16 Comments

  1. Badger February 22, 2020 at 14:55

    My favorite has been an application of Lubriplate (or insert favorite grease) on areas like rail channels & lug/cam/bearing areas. Only mention Lubriplate ’cause I still have a bunch of it. Just a light application followed by the faintest drizzle in the rail channels with a needle-oiler of Mobil-1 10w-50. Doesn’t flash off easily under heat. I discovered it ends up making a kind of slurry that seems to stay there for a very, very long time. And from sub-zero to trying to fry the Ultimak rail it always runs like the good Golden Retriever it is. It’s not picky; just put decent stuff in the right places.

  2. […] Lubricating the Kalashnikov […]

  3. Anonymous March 8, 2020 at 16:57

    5

  4. Anonymous April 29, 2020 at 15:33

    4.5

  5. Bob french February 1, 2021 at 11:26

    TW-25B was designed to be used in desert/jungle environments. They did something to it so that the grease does not attract dust/dirt. Sort of a negative static charge. Works at -25F to +140F (Summer at Leatherneck).

  6. Dicky February 1, 2021 at 11:50

    Scout, do you have any recommendations for lube in low temp areas? Local temps routinely get down to the teens in my AO, and occasionally lower than that.

  7. Rick O'Shea February 2, 2021 at 12:44

    I’m trying froglube I our psa aks.
    Seems to work well in our ars time will tell.

  8. luke February 2, 2021 at 12:45

    Got a few AK’s on my Gun Broker watch list now. Any particular make or model I should seek out or anyone I should be wary of? Thanks in advance fellers.

    • NC Scout February 2, 2021 at 17:56

      Stay away from the RAS-47 ad anything that says IO Inc on it. The rest should be fine.

      • luke February 2, 2021 at 23:58

        Thank you sir for the info. Got a bid in for WASR 10. My bud in NC suggested. I’m working on him regardless class. Would be nice to head up your way in a couple months. My brother has tax season until about mid April would like to bring him as well. Lol provided this shit show we call Clown World can hold on that long.

      • Luke February 3, 2021 at 03:26

        Sorry one more quick question. I’m going to assume that I will have procured an AK within a week. If if not I still don’t mind buying ammo for it. I found 1000 rounds for $569 but it’s that Russian steel casing TulAmmo. Now I wouldn’t dare put that thru my AR but what about the AK? I want to hop on this. I personally don’t see ammo being easy to procure in the future. If I by miracle it is and my investment goes down well I can live with that. Again thanks in advance.

    • Yankee February 2, 2021 at 18:52

      PSA makes good AKs. I have and recommend both the AK-P and their AK-103 clone.

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