Partisan Repair – Part One: Resistors and Capacitors, by DN

So you want to fix electronics huh? Luckily for you it is easier then you think; personally I have trained many people who have had no experience with electronics or soldering for that matter, typically withing a few weeks they can stand on there own two feet. They will still have a million questions but they possess the necessary basics to find the answers and best of all they are getting stuff working. The goal here is to make this as straight forward as possible, I am intentionally skipping over a lot of things I don’t think matter right now; so all you super nerds please don’t hate me for not covering many technical details.

Let’s get to it.

As someone new to electronics schematics can make things a lot more confusing. They are great when you have them but chances are you won’t have any, so what do you do? You check everything; every component in the device if possible! You don’t need to know how the circuit works or even what the thing does. If you check every basic component you will find the problem most of the time. Check the stuff that is easy to check with a multi-meter first. Also note please don’t check electronic components with the device powered (that time will come later). In fact make sure you also unplug it!

Resistors

Typically a failing or broken resistor will start to look like a open circuit, or in other words it’s resistance starts to rise or become infinite. Resistors take much time to get down and memorize.

Before you go checking your resistors you need this!

Photo taken from http://mfranzen.ca/images/pics/classes/comp/bb-resistor-colour-chart-l.jpg

If this chart makes no sense to you look at it more and you will figure it out. The number of bands on the resistor will determine how we read the resistors color code. So the four band from the chart we see (brown= first digit=1) (Black=second digit= 0) (Orange=Multiplier=1,000) (Yellow=Tolerance=5%)……So the easiest way for the multiplier is just drop the 1 at the beginning. So you got a 10K Ohm resistor with a 5% tolerance.

Look found some resistors! Lets check them!

On this meter OL means it does not measure anything. So we have a open resistor. Also remember set the meter to resistor mode! The Ohms symbol!

Although in the photo you cannot see the colors to determine its resistance we will pretend it is a 5% 100 ohm resistor. So this resistor would be good if it were to measure anywhere between 95-100 ohms. Also since we need to replace this resistor we need to know it’s wattage rating. Based on the dimensions of the resistor is how you determine it’s “wattage”.

A chart can be found here:

Look at this juicy one. He should be a 1.2K Ohm 5%

This one reads low? So what we need to do remove it from from its circuit.

So to break the circuit pull up one leg on the resistor.

Now with the circuit broken he looks good! Problem is the circuit has resistance and resistors in parallel measure lower in circuit.

Well some nice person printed its value right on this one! So it’s 0.68 ohms!

Ummm? My meter measures it at 1.2 Ohms. Maybe that resistor is bad?

When resistances get small and you are using a multi-meter a thing called meter loading needs to be taken into consideration. So you can see the resistance of my meters leads etc has about 0.4 ohms of resistance. With a little math 1.2-0.4=0.8

We could conclude that the resistor is most likely fine. For resistors with low resistance a good tool to have is a LCR meter. But a handy thing on many meters is its relative setting. Put the leads together and push the relative button and it subtracts that reading and now uses it as a new reference point.

Now when we read that resistor in relative mode she looks good for sure.

Capacitor

You can look up on the internet what a capacitor does – I will not go over that much here. 99.999% of the time you find a bad capacitor it will be a electrolytic capacitor. Capacitors in circuit can be a pain to check. But chances are if the piece of equipment is like 30+ years old just replace them especially if it is power electronics like inverters, switching power supplies and VFDs. If the caps smell like fish you know they are bad.  Capacitors are either polarized or Bi-polar (non-polarized, un-polarized whatever)! We will only go over aluminum electrolytic capacitors for now. But if new to this once again check everything if you can.

So the information you may find on a capacitor is it’s voltage rating (it could be either AC or DC rating) capacitance and sometime it’s tolerance you may also need the manufacture and series of the capacitor because some are special. We know this is a polarized capacitor because of the white line you see on it. The white line is the cathode or the (-). The other leg is the anode or the (+). Put these in backwards and bad things happen. Oh ya set meter to capacitor mode.

So this is a 100uf (micro farad) capacitor. Assuming its tolerance is 10% I will accept anything between 90-110uf. So from the picture we can see that this capacitor is bad.

Capacitor is blurry in the photo; however my meter does not read anything from this capacitor, so it is bad!

Well this capacitor looks good. You can put it back in circuit if you like or if it is old and you can get the part I say spend the $0.40 cents and replace it. Also remember to try and find out what product line or series it belongs to so you can know to buy a high frequency, low impedance, high temperature capacitor etc.

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About the Author: Patriotman

Patriotman currently ekes out a survivalist lifestyle in a suburban northeastern state as best as he can. He has varied experience in political science, public policy, biological sciences, and higher education. Proudly Catholic and an Eagle Scout, he has no military experience and thus offers a relatable perspective for the average suburban prepper who is preparing for troubled times on the horizon with less than ideal teams and in less than ideal locations. Brushbeater Store Page: http://bit.ly/BrushbeaterStore

11 Comments

  1. Walt Westbrook January 31, 2022 at 14:48

    Partisan Repair is a fantastic series!! Please expand (perhaps enough content for a paid PDF)!!!
    I’ve always been a repair-type tinkerer with a pretty good track record. But my limits on anything electronic have caused me to trash many a product that likely could have been repaired!

    Perhaps you would offer a post on general troubleshooting? So we could learn how to narrow potential problems down to the system or sub system?
    Regardless, thanks for this post. I learned a great deal!

    • NC Scout January 31, 2022 at 14:50

      Thanks brother!! I know the author was super excited to get it out, and I’m proud he did. Thanks for the positive feedback!

    • Patriotman January 31, 2022 at 15:14

      Thanks for the feedback! I am sure DN, the author, appreciates it. Parts 2 and 3 are coming over the next few days, and he does ask for any additional topics you want to know about, so feel free to keep those suggestions coming.

      • Walt Westbrook January 31, 2022 at 16:45

        TOPICS
        Methods of troubleshooting
        Auto / RV / Boat electrical (12v differences?)
        Basics of soldering / unsoldering
        Parts sources / Prep Kit (I need this now, a good general kit of parts)
        Prep book list
        Good things to cannibalize from current stream of disposed products (thinking about MacGyvering in the broken down future). EG- Bank car parts that are known consumables for the age of your car (starter, water pumps, etc)..an equivalent in electronics?
        HVAC board repair vs. replacement
        Appliance board repair vs. replacement
        Sensors (this would be good too, as I’m working on a hack for the downstream O2 sensors on my truck)
        Motors
        Power Supplies

        • DirtNasty January 31, 2022 at 19:14

          Many of the topics you picked are very good. Electronics is much easier then most people think. If you learn the basics you can figure out the rest. The internet is a wonderful tool.

    • DirtNasty January 31, 2022 at 16:33

      General troubleshooting involves devices powered or messing with live voltages. Sure it can be a fast short cut and you can get things figured out very fast, I believe in crawling before walking. A habit we all do at my job is run through something before energizing it, especially new people they always get lit up a few times before they learn.

  2. ConSigCor January 31, 2022 at 15:54

    Excellent article. Look forward to more. Most of my gear is more than 30 years old so it’s starting to need a lot of TLC.

  3. Chris January 31, 2022 at 17:21

    This is EXCELLENT !!!
    You made me go pull my old Electronics Text books out from my yootfull school days.

    Looking forward to the others.

    Thank You….

  4. Hawks January 31, 2022 at 21:24

    Resistor color code…Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly Get Some Now

  5. Freewheeler February 1, 2022 at 08:03

    One of the nicest tools I bought for replacing the little gauge motors in GM instrument panel circuit boards was a de-soldering iron with a suction ball attached. Not that expensive and made it a breeze!

  6. badger52 February 1, 2022 at 10:58

    Couple of thoughts for those just starting out:

    1. Don’t go nuts on your digital multimeter if you are getting your first one. Decent ones can be had in the $30-40 range in the big box home stores. I know you want that nice new Fluke “because FLUKE!” but the fact is that the components you’re measuring have junkier manufacturing tolerances than the intrument you’re measuring them with.

    2. If you’re going to get into replacing stuff or soldering projects, don’t look at your 25 Watt pencil iron sold in the bubble-pak in your Favorite local WallyWorld. Spend the $$ (the bucks you didn’t spend on a fancy meter) and get yourself a decent soldering STATION, temp controlled. $100 or less from online. No affiliation but I give Hakko an 11 on a scale of 1-10. My personal is a Hakko FX-888D. They’ve probably changed the numbering by now but you’ll get the idea. Getting the solder the temp you need right frickin’ now (almost) makes the job easier and – important – avoids prolonged heat going into the component you’re working on. Promise – It will make your day every time you use it.

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