Originally written back in 2015 (some of the links may not work, deal with it), TX2Guns’ review is spot on and echoes many of the same points I make about the AK in general. My own current take on the modern fighting AK can be found in an earlier post on my continuing evaluation of Palmetto State Armory’s AK-P. Its an extremely viable weapon for a large number of reasons and has several unique advantages, namely a quick train up time for new / inexperienced shooters and inexpensive ammo to outfit an entire Detachment. Because you are planning for that, right? -NCS
The Yugoslavian PAP M92 AK-47 Pistol is one of the better AK pistols to hit the U.S. Market in some time. And similar to the other AK pistol offerings on the market such as the Draco and Mini-Draco,(see my review of the Mini-Draco HERE.) these guns are only IMPORTED and not MANUFACTURED (or ASSEMBLED) by Century Arms Intl. The M92 is 100% produced in the famous Zastava Arms Plant in Serbia; the same plant that produced the M70 line of AK Rifles. The M70AB2 Underfolder is quite possible, and in this shooter’s opinion, one of the BEST KIT AK’s you can buy.
So, where does the AK Pistol fit into the CO’s arsenal? Good Question. Read an old article of mine to find out HERE.
Any AK, in order to be a fighting weapon, is going need a FEW modifications to be useful and more reliable. Now I have been shooting and training with AK’s even before they were cool, and I am well aware of the two schools of thought regarding modifying AK’s: You have the “Modernist” and the “Purist”. The Modernist like to treat the AK like an AR and hang everything they can off the gun besides a tactical toaster. The Purist, on the other hand, keep the gun within it’s design parameters: SIMPLE. The only mods these guys make are very basic and mostly internal..like a better trigger, retainer plate, etc.
I guess, as time has passed, I fall somewhere in between, because like the Purist, I believe to get the most out of any weapon, you have to use it (and more importantly TRAIN WITH IT) the way it was designed, but also, like the modernist, I believe that we live in 2015 and not 1947, and just like the Russian Army is currently doing, the AK platform can be modernized and improved to be more deadly and efficient than Mikhail Kalashnikov ever imagined in 1947.
I will go through what mods I did to the gun, starting with some basic gunsmith work.
- Install Trigger Retainer Plate
Every AK or Saiga Shotgun you own should have this part installed first. Never trust the reliability of your weapon to the “sheperds hook” (a piece of wire). Replace it with a steel plate. I cannot emphasize this enough. The AK is undoubtedly one of the most reliable weapons in the world, BUT, if there is going to be a failure, typically it is going to be one of two things: your magazine or your trigger group. Simple way to help avoid that: Don’t buy cheap polymer magazines and install a retainer plate on every AK you own! I got mine from CNC Warrior. (Heads up: I have heard some of the other Retaining Plates (like Tapco’s) must be modified to fit the M92, but CNC’s fits like a charm).
- Polish Trigger Shelf
Every AK I have ever owned with either the stock trigger or the Tapco G2 have had gritty trigger resets; this is not so much a “con” of the AK as some say as it is an opportunity for you to learn how to work on your trigger group. As I always have said: If you are gonna train and carry a weapon for self-defense, learn to work and repair them yourself! Notice I said “Polish” not “File”; big difference in those two words! You don’t want to take any material away as you just want to “clean” up the shelf of the hammer.
- Dremel Off spot weld
You are going to want to remove that spot welded thread protector and install a decent flash hider or muzzle brake. This is fairly easy to do with a good dremel too and there are plenty of YouTube vids showing you how if you are not sure. I will give you a few tips: Be Patient! and if the protector wont screw off easily, you have not cut the weld completely. Don’t go torquing on your barrel with vice grips, you can warp your barrel! Also remember, this is a LH thread so it is opposite of the old adage “Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty”. You must turn it clockwise (right) to loosen.
- Clean threads on muzzle
There will be cosmoline on the threads when you remove the thread nut, so be sure and clean this off. Also, after you finish all your internal work, CLEAN the gun spotless, especially around the trigger group. Make sure no small filings or metal chips have fallen inside.
- Install Detent Pin
Before you install any muzzle device, you are going to want to install a detent pin, otherwise, no matter how tight you screw on that muzzle device, it will eventually back out on you. You can buy these inexpensive kits from several places, I got mine from CNC Warrior, but Rapid Fire Tek also carries them.
- Install Quality Muzzle Brake
Obviously you are not going to leave the threads bare, so invest in a good flash hider or muzzle brake. I purchased two different ones to try: the Eclipse Flash Hider from Manticore Arms and the old school authentic “Krink” Shorty “Booster” Brake from CNC Warrior. As you will see in the Field Test coming up soon, this gun is a fire-breathing Dragon, so taming it on the “business end” is going to be a priority.
- Install Quality Grip
All shooters have their favorite type of grips, and I prefer Hogue soft grips on my AK’s. I have huge meat hooks, so I like a grip that is comfortable and really swells up and fills the hand.
- Install SB-47 Brace
Believe me when I tell you, that this little invention is worth the money for large-caliber pistols like the AK!
- Install RFT’s SB-47 Adjustable Spacer, Locking Plate and QD Swivel
This nifty piece of kit from my friend Bud at Rapid Fire Tek allows you to adjust the length of your brace and at the same time lock the brace down to avoid spinning. A QD swivel attaches directly, giving you a Rear Sling Mount. I will be doing a stand-alone Gear Review very soon, so stay tuned.
- Install Sling
I chose to go with a 2 point sling versus the one point, only because I have always favored using a 2 point sling most of my adult life. I went with a very simple American Made sling from Amazon for $10 (Mine is Foliage color but they also come in OD Green, Coyote and Black). I know there are better built slings out there, but IMO, a sling should be simple! One note here: Due to the integrated front sling mount on the M92, you will need a sling with a hook-type fastener. If you don’t like metal hooks, another option you might try is the Israeli Sling which I run on my other AK’s.
After looking at either installing an Ultimak top rail, which I run on almost all my AK’s, I got sold on the Renegade because it offered basically what the Ultimak did: Co-Witness capability that is Lightweight with Flexible mounting options for a light. See, although the Renegade is a proprietary system from Manticore, you are not just limited to just using Manticore rails and mounts (like Magpul’s forearms for example).
You can buy the Forearm set with or without the Top Optic Mounting Plate, and Sven at Manticore even offers a simple cover plate for those of you that don’t want to mount an optic. The Renegade gives you 3 basic Optic Mounting Plates: The Burris Fastfire, The Aimpoint Micro or the Primary Arms Micro. I went with the Burris Fastfire, since I run this optic on another AK and have used it in the field extensively and know how tough it is.
The installation is very easy, but be warned though the tolerances are VERY TIGHT in order to make the unit fit solid on the gun. What you can do to make it go on easier is lube up the front part of the forearm that the locking collar goes around; that with some gentle tapping with a rubber mallet should enable it to go in and the locking lever to seat properly. Remember: If the lever will not lock into position, DO NOT try and force it! You also might have to lightly sand where the locking collar attaches to get a good fit. The optic plate itself locks around your gas tube with U brackets, bolts and blue loctite. The only tip I can give you here is DO NOT apply the loctite until you have your optic level and square and where you want it. There is a 5 part YouTube vid by Forever Armed that walks you through a lot of the installations I have discussed here including the Renegade. See that HERE.
- Install Light Mount and Light
Since bad guys like to operate at night, no serious “social” gun should be without a light attached, and the CO M92 has one. As I stated above, the Renegade Forearm allows the attachment of a variety of short Picatinny rails, so I used Magpul’s 3 slot MOE Polymer Rail for a mount. As for the flashlight, Earl at IWC just sent me their new Mini-CQB Weapon Light, an integrated mount+light 375 lumen powerhouse. Be on the lookout for that Gear Review Very soon as well.
- Use Quality Magazines!
I could not leave this all important part of the gun out, even though some people seem to skip it. Always remember this: ANY Semi-Automatic weapon is only going to be as reliable as the magazine feeding it. Now I am not gonna go into a long diatribe on what is and what is not a “quality” AK magazine, but I will say this: As long as European Steel Mags stay around $15, it is really a moot issue as far as I am concerned. Do I use others? Sure. Bulgarian Circle 10’s and Russian Bakelites (when I can find them). I also have a fair collection of US Palm 30’s in various hues (including the new Bakelite) which I have trained with for some time and never had an issue. I have not had a chance to try out the new Magpul PMAG Gen M3’s (not the MOE’s) but have heard semi-favorable reviews. The main thing to remember with any AK polymer mag is if it doesn’t have steel reinforced locking lugs and strong, reinforced feed lips, you can forget them. They may stand up the first few hundred rounds, but in the long stretch they will break down. The AK action is T-Rex brutal, so the mag must match it if you want consistent reliability.