Here is the latest from Jack Lawson, author of the Civil Defense Manual. This comes directly from Chapter 21. You can grab a copy of his book here. Jack is a strong supporter of American Partisan, and even had NC Scout write the chapter on Radio Communications (Chapter 17 in Volume I). I bought my copy the day it become available and I highly recommend you do as well.

Part One can be found here:

https://www.americanpartisan.org/2021/12/jack-lawson-sends-alternative-power-gasoline-and-fuels-part-one


After some Extraordinary Catastrophic Events, many of the people who would normally be your competition for fuels… will be dead. Most will die there of disease, from the weather, lack of life sustaining medicines, dehydration, starvation, suicide and violence. There will be huge amounts of fuel in these people’s vehicles and in fuel station underground storage tanks for the taking… or maybe I should say… for the siphoning.

Getting fuel When A Collapse Of Society

When A Collapse Of Society occurs, there will be vehicles and underground storage tanks with gasoline and diesel that can be drawn from. You should have two items…

One, a simple plastic and rubber hand siphon pump like in the photo to get fuel out of vehicles, and…

Fill-Rite rotary hand fuel

Two, a heavy-duty rotary hand pump and hose to get fuel from underground storage tanks and to transfer fuel between barrels and containers. A special type of hand pump is needed for gasoline. Just because the pump is advertised as a ‘fuel transfer pump,’ dig deeply into that.

Most ‘fuel transfer pumps’ are not made for gasoline pumping long-term and the seals will go out rendering them useless. My NPP has a Fill-Rite heavy-duty rotary hand pump that is for gasoline and diesel. This unit is made to screw into one of the bung holes of a 55-gallon barrel. We also have a separate stand if drawing fuel from an underground tank.

Know that if a pump is cheap… you get what you pay for and it’s probably not for gasoline. Go to www.fillrite.com for quality rotary hand gasoline and diesel pumps. On our NPP pump unit, the 25-foot-long tank hose has a strainer on the drop down the tank end and a filter at the hand crank or ‘siphon’ pump. The filter removes water, rust, mold growth and other contaminants that will be in tanks after fuel sets for long periods of time.

NOTE: Color code paint your pumps ‘White’ for human consumables and ‘Red’ for fuels, so you don’t cross contaminate fuel with items you eat and drink.

There are two configurations of fill pipes going to underground tanks at fuel stations. Most all these are 4 inch diameter ‘fill dump pipes’ going down to the top of the buried tanks.

One… a ‘straight drop’ into the tank. Two… a ‘curbside fill pipe,’ mostly installed at truck stops where the fuel truck can park away from the underground tanks, not interrupting their use. The curbside drop will have about 20 foot of pipe with two 90-degree bends not big enough to easily push your siphon hose through to the underground storage tank. If you could, you would need a very flexible 40-foot length siphon hose.

We are putting together a complete unit with pump and hoses for our NPP, long enough to get to the bottom of a barrel or to siphon from ‘straight drop’ buried fuel tanks at my neighborhood gas station. The hose is 25 foot in length with a filter on the pump and a strainer on the hose end that goes down into the tank. We have about $400 invested in this, but like I said, you get what you pay for.

We’ve had minor discussions about this, but if our NPP Council feels charitable and says yes to providing fuel to those outside our NPP, we’ll get the value back many times over in barter or trade. This unit is functional now, but a work in progress, as we’ve bought an aluminum military medical supply case that we are retrofitting to store it in and transport it. It will have wheels and a backpack harness on it. It will contain the whole enchilada… siphon hose, the pump, fuel filters and a stand for the pump and is not much over 40 pounds in weight.

Fuel for your Engine Powered Electric Generator

Because diesel fuel stores better for longer periods of time, I recommend only diesel fuel engines in Engine Powered Electric Generators for long-term usage. However, that being said, if you live in a metropolitan area, and don’t have at least 200 gallons of diesel fuel stored, you have to make a decision if gasoline should be the fuel for your Engine Powered Electric Generator. This will only permit you intermittent use of your generator.

Gasoline eventually ‘goes off’ and is not a reliable long-term as fuel for your generator. So, just because there’s a huge supply around, unless you have huge stocks of gasoline rejuvenator like PRI, gasoline will eventually be useless to you.

Gasoline is much more common in most metropolitan and suburban areas and easier than for the average person to deal with in regards to a generator engine. I am not talking down to you about this, as I was raised on a farm, so unlike most of you, I have been brought up around diesel fuel and diesel engines and understand their operation, which is more problematic and complex than gasoline engines.

Avoid Ethanol Blended gasoline

Try to obtain gasoline with the lowest amount of Ethanol, which is basically ‘corn alcohol.’ Ethanol, in over 15% of the gasoline by volume, creates a horror show you don’t want to see. Ethanol-blended gasoline degrades faster and more completely than pure gasoline.

Zone Tech 3-in-1 Hand Siphon Pump for Gas

Ethanol eats holes in fuel lines, corrodes the fuel tank and engine intake parts, makes small engines run so hot that they melt rubber and plastic components that destroys the engine. That is if you can get it started. If you didn’t take every last drop of Ethanol blended gasoline out of your engine after using it last year you’ll have a clogged carburetor, gummed up injectors and plugged filters.

If you do get the engine started, know that Ethanol absorbs water from the air like a sponge  and then separates from the gasoline, sinking to the bottom of the gas tank where it quickly degrades and creates gums, varnish and other insoluble debris that will plug fuel flow passages. You may as well try to use Aunt Jemima’s maple syrup as a fuel. It costs three times the value of a gallon of gas… to produce a gallon of Ethanol. Another program foisted on Americans for campaign contributions that is a farce. But hey, it’s only your tax dollars that pays for this loss.

How do you know how much Ethanol is in the gas? Again, I suppose if you had enough chemicals, a chemistry whiz kid, the ‘Kosmos Beginners Chemistry Set’ and an up-to-date secret decoder ring you could do it. Other than that, it’s usually stated on a label on the pump housing. But be aware, that if Ethanol gas sits for very long in underground tanks, you don’t want your siphon hose right on the bottom when you draw out fuel, because that will be pure water that will overcome and plug your hand pump’s filter capacity. Drop your siphon hose to the bottom, then pull it up about a foot before pumping gas out.

Properly storing fuel

Store your fuel outdoors for fire safety. Keep it stored in shade and in as temperature stable area as possible away from wooden fences, trees, bushes, your house and other structures. One of the issues that causes fuel to become contaminated, is the up and down fluctuations of temperatures that condenses moisture inside the fuel container. This also puts unnecessary stresses on the container by expansion and contraction.

I DO NOT suggest storing Flammables in larger than 5-gallon containers unless the storage is underground in a specific tank system set up for Flammables. The possibility of a leak from a large container is a time bomb waiting to go off. Understand that one gallon of fuel weighs roughly 8 pounds. So, a 55-gallon drum of gasoline weights over 400 pounds, which is way too much for even four people to handle if it leaks and has to be moved out of danger.

A rule of thumb to use… IN GROUND will keep your fuel from the ups and downs of outside 24-hour cyclic temperature changes. Temperature changes will make your fuel containers “breathe in and breathe out” …like your lungs, over the day and night temperature differences. The more consistent and cool the temperature… the less stress you put on your containers and the less moisture will be drawn into the containers when the “breathe in.”

Keep your containers away from your home and DO NOT store in your garage or basement. The best storage method is to have an in-ground storage area away from trees, your home and buildings. Think… dig down and line the sides with concrete block or timbers and put a cover over it that will support human weight.

On 55-gallon drums there are ‘bungs’ to fill and empty the drum on the top. These are usually screw in type caps, one about 2 1/2 inches and another about 1 inch in diameter. For diesel fuel, I tighten the large one finger tight, but loosen the small one to where it will let air in and out from expansion. Do this only for low flash point Combustibles… not on Flammables.

5-gallon HDPE fuel storage container

Fuel stabilizers can absorb and prevent some of this condensation, but eventually it absorbs all the water it can and loses its effectiveness. So, the fuel preservation solution needs to be added to the container every couple of years. The ideal storage for fuel is a dry underground area if you can keep moisture drained away from the area.

Make your choice between ‘plastic containers’ and ‘metal containers.’ HDPE,’ High Density PolyEthylene, also known as PEHD for PolyEthylene High Density, are essentially plastic containers. Both plastic and metal containers have advantages and disadvantages. Plastic containers are prone to penetration by sharp or heated objects and are difficult, if not impossible, to repair… but they don’t corrode.

High-density polyethylene (HDPE) or polyethylene high-density (PEHD) is a thermoplastic polymer with a high strength-to-density ratio. It’s used in plastic bottles, corrosion-resistant piping, geomembranes and plastic lumber. Midwest Can for HDPE containers.

NOTE: Do not completely enclose metal cans with plastic. You’ll think this is what to do, but then like me, you’ll discover that the condensation from temperature changes will run to the bottom of the plastic bag causing the outer bottoms of the container to corrode.

Metal containers are more penetration resistant and repairable, but corrode and rust. I hedge my bets and have both. Any HDPE food container can be used to store fuel… but don’t do the reverse. If food or water is stored in containers formerly used for fuels or other toxic substances, the container will contaminate your food no matter how thoroughly you clean and reclean it. Mark it FOR FUEL ONLY.

All metal storage containers should be covered and kept off the ground, sitting on something like composite deck dimension lumber. Cover containers with plastic, but leave the bottom of the plastic open and set them up off the ground or concrete on composite material.

Jerry Can recessed groove welded-Buy only this type

Whichever you choose, metal or plastic, I highly recommend Lexington Container Company or Midwest Can for all fuel, water and food grade storage containers. All my HDPE containers are from Midwest Can Company.

Lexington sells about everything under the sun in container storage, including blue barrels and larger pallet mounted storage containers and I find their prices hard to beat. Shipping is a large part of the cost. Go to… LexingtonContainerCompany.com or MidwestCan.com

Buy only recessed groove welded Jerry Cans as in the photo. There is a cheap knock-off Chinese manufactured Jerry Can with the edges welded protruding outside the can, which makes a ridge that projects around the can and is prone to damage, thus leaking-Do not buy. The welded edge of a properly manufactured can is protected by the recessed groove.

Jerry type can and container pouring spouts. The EPA and whacko freakish State regulations like in California, have created a total clusterfock in container spouts. Their attempts at limiting fuel spillage and vapor emissions with spout check valves and push to activate valves has created complex spout systems that actually cause more spillage than they prevent.

These ‘environmentally safe’ (in reality a diametrically opposed meaning) spouts make it extremely difficult, if not impossible, to pour fuel into a vehicle and other fuel tanks from Jerry Cans without fuel running all over. There are alternative simple spouts around and or you can install pouring vent caps as below to help alleviate this problem. ‘Wavian’ made NATO Jerry cans have a bulit in vent system to keep the mess of splilled fuel down when pouring it. These are the best of metal fuel cans. WavianUSA.com

Look out for Part Three coming in the next few days.